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외국인을 위한 한국문화

Large-Eyed Herring (Baendaengi), Narrow-Minded but Exquisite in Taste

[Korean Culture Letter 5256]
By Kim Young-jo, Director of the Pureunsol Korean Culture Institute

 

We often click our tongues at narrow-minded and petty people, calling them "having the mind of a baendaengi (baendaengi sogalmeori)" or "having nostrils like a baendaengi." This implies comparing someone who easily pouts at trivial words, lacks generosity, and insists only on their own claims to this small fish. A baendaengi is a small fish belonging to the herring family, measuring only about 10 to 15 cm in length even when fully grown. Unlike other fish, its internal organs are so small they seem almost non-existent, which is why it faces the sarcasm of being "narrow-minded". Furthermore, due to its impatient nature, it cannot withstand the stress when caught in a net or on a fishing line. The moment it comes up out of the water, it twists its body, trembles violently, and dies almost instantly, making it the epitome of pettiness.

 

 

Contrary to the stigma regarding its personality, its taste and nutritional value are second to none. Particularly from May to early July, just ahead of its spawning season in mid-July, its flesh becomes plump and oily, reaching the peak of its savory richness. This taste is so excellent that it holds its own even when compared to premium fish species like sea bass or sea bream. Nutritionally, it is also outstanding. Being rich in calcium and iron, it is effective in preventing osteoporosis. It also contains a large amount of unsaturated fatty acids, showing excellent efficacy in preventing adult diseases and improving skin health

 

Thanks to its outstanding taste, the baendaengi historically received highly precious treatment. King Jeongjo of the Joseon Dynasty bestowed baendaengi as a royal gift to the Silhak (Practical Learning) scholars he cherished, and this record remains in Lee Deok-mu's Cheongjanggwanjeonseo. In addition, when Admiral Yi Sun-sin could not filial piety to his mother in person while stationed far away on the battlefield, he sent her baendaengi as a gift to convey his heart. Not only that, Saongwon (the government office in charge of royal palace food during the Joseon Dynasty) even established a separate office called 'Soeoso' exclusively to manage baendaengi. Although called a "narrow-minded fish" due to its appearance and temperament, the baendaengi is a top-tier ingredient with an unexpected charm that has captivated the palates of our ancestors for ages

 

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「腹が狭い」と言われるサッパ、味は一品

[韓国文化便り (カンコクブンカだより 5256]

執筆:金永祚(プルンソル民族文化研究所 所長)

 

腹は狭くても味は一品な「サッパ(ベンデンイ)」私たちはよく、器が小さく偏狭な人を見て「サッパの根性(ソガルモリ)のようだ」とか、「器がサッパの鼻の穴のようだ」と言って舌打ちをしたりします。些細な言葉にもすぐにへそを曲げ、寛容さがなく、自分の主張ばかりを固執する人を、この小さな魚に例えるのです。サッパは成魚になっても体長が10〜15cmほどにしかならないニシン科の小さな魚で、他の魚と違って内臓が非常に小さく、まるでないように見えるため、「腹が狭い(内臓が小さい)」という皮肉を言われます。その上、気性が荒く、網や釣り針にかかるとストレスに耐え切れず、水上に上がってくるやいなや体をよじってプルプルと震え、すぐに死んでしまう特性があるため、偏狭さの代名詞となりました。

 

 

性格に対する汚名とは裏腹に、味と栄養は一級品です。特に7月中旬の産卵期を控えた5月から7月初旬までは、身がふっくらと乗り、脂が回って香ばしさが極限に達しますが、その味は高級魚であるスズキやタイと比較しても引けを取りません。また栄養面でも非常に優れており、カルシウムと鉄分が豊富で骨粗鬆症の予防に効果的であり、不飽和脂肪酸が多量に含まれているため、生活習慣病の予防や美肌にも卓越した効能を示します。

 

優れた味のおかげで、サッパは歴史的にも貴重なもてなしを受けました。朝鮮時代の正祖(チョンジョ)は、自身が惜しみなく目をかけていた実学者たちにサッパを下賜品として贈り、李徳懋(イ・ドンム)の『青荘館全書』にその記録が残っています。また、忠武公・李舜臣(イ・スンシン)は、戦場から遠く離れて暮らしていた母親に直接親孝行ができないことから、気持ちを込めてサッパを贈り物として送り届けました。それだけではなく、朝鮮時代の宮廷料理を担当していた司饔院(サオンウォン)には、サッパを専門に管理する「蘇魚所(ソオソ)」を別途設けるほどでした。サッパは見かけや気性のせいで「腹の狭い魚」と呼ばれますが、長い歳月、私たちの先祖の口味を虜にしてきた、ギャップのある魅力を持つ最高の食材です。